climb-tafraout

Despite sustained development over the last twenty years, the quartzite mountains of the Moroccan Anti-Atlas continue to provide exciting new-routing opportunities for competent climbing teams, with lots of unclimbed lines from short single-pitch buttresses right through to long full-day adventures. For the most part the rock here is surprisingly solid and the climbing highly rewarding, but an often friendly appearance can mask the inherent seriousness of new-routing in what is essentially a remote region. All parties considering attempting unclimbed faces here need to adopt a cautious approach and be capable of effecting a self-rescue if required - there are usually no other people around, and no mountain rescue exists to extract you should the worst happen. So... climb within your capabilities, and take care out there!

Recording New Climbs

If you make a first ascent anywhere in the Anti-Atlas region, please record it in as much detail as possible and include contact information so that we can get in touch if we need more information. It's particularly useful to include photographs showing the line of your route.

Where to Record New Climbs

The master document for Anti-Atlas new routes is the Livre d'Escalade, held behind reception in the Hotel les Amandiers, Tafraout. A smaller book of climbs can also be found in the Kasbah Tizourgane, for those staying on the north side who are unable to visit Tafraout.

Whilst the written documents remain the master source, posting your routes in the online new route book (below) means that you can easily add photos. You can also record new routes or comments by email to new-routes@oxfordalpineclub.co.uk

28 Nov 2024

A new route on Tocho de Tafraout:

2. Independence Day E1 5b A0

35m. A massive pitch up the striking crackline to the right of Northwest Corner. The route is sustained, varied and very well protected, requiring a full rack from very small to very large cams, with multiple pieces up to 20cm. The line starts up a wide left-slanting crack with very hard moves on poor rock – this section is best aided to reach excellent climbing in the vertical crack beyond. Follow this via sublime hand jams and intricate finger locks to a fun, wide exit onto the first tower. There is a bolted lower-off here, but it’s worth continuing up the final section of ZZ to get the summit tick.

S.Broadbent & L.Arthur, November 2024.

28 Nov 2024

The following new lines have been bolted on the prominent triangular slab to the right of Traverse of the Gods at Terrace Crag:

The Triangle Slab

Ghostrider F5c
42m. A fine climb, following an obvious line of weakness up the overhang-capped slab. The climbing is continually interesting, with a well-protected crux right at the top. 10 quickdraws required.
1) 15m (F5c) Scrappy climbing up a lichenous groove to gain a belay at the base of the clean slab.
2) 27m (F5c) Follow the break leftwards, then go up the flake to its top. Above this, a fun series of friction moves gains a bolted lower-off at the apex of the slab.
S.Broadbent & L.Arthur, November 2024.

Lone Ranger F6a
42m. An absorbing pitch up the centre of the perfect slab, giving well-protected and continually interesting friction climbing. It is, perhaps, one of the finest pitches of its type in the region. 15 quickdraws required.
1) 15m (F5c) Scrappy climbing up the lichenous groove to gain a belay at the base of the clean slab, as for Ghostrider.
2) 27m (F6a) Go straight up from the belay, following the line of closely-spaced bolts right up the centre of the slab to a shared lower-off at the apex.
L.Arthur & S.Broadbent, November 2024.

Climb Tafraout

Adventure Trad Climbing in Morocco

Tafraout Area NEW ROUTES

New Route BOOK entries